Lazy Lines

About two days ago we were suppose to have offshore perfection. I woke up before the sun and got to the beach super early. Unfortunately it hadn't turn offshore yet, in fact it had been onshore and blowing way harder then the day before, so the surf looked very unappetizing. I checked the radar and the various forecast apps and decided to wait it out. About two or so hours later, after a monsoon like rain, the wind finally switched. We all suited up and paddled out. The first couple of hours was rough. The wind was blowing so hard you could hardly get down the faces, plus it was pitching so half the time I was going over the falls. It eventually straightened up a bit and we all got some fun ones. The tide was weird for this entire swell, so you had to watch out or you'd be getting pitched, but it was fun nonetheless.

photo credit: Lisa Traweek's surf pics https://www.facebook.com/lisatraweeks.surfpics